Assessment of Natural Sunlight Protection Provided by 10 High-SPF Broad-Spectrum Sunscreens and Sun-Protective Fabrics.

In 1978, the FDA Advisory Panel proposed both indoor and natural sunlight SPF testing methods but reverted to indoor testing only in 1993. Today's sunscreen sun protection and broad-spectrum claims are based on mandated clinical tests using solar simulators and in vitro spectrophotometers. This research evaluated the protection of 10 high-SPF (30-110), broad-spectrum sunscreen products, as well as 6 sun-protective fabrics against natural sunlight in Arequipa, Peru. Each of the 17 subjects was exposed to natural sunlight for 1 h and 59 min under clear skies, with temperatures and humidity similar to those in an indoor clinical laboratory. Test sites were photographed 16-24 h later. Four dermatologists evaluated the photographs for erythema and persistent pigment darkening (PPD). Perceptible sun-induced skin injury (sunburn and/or pigmentation) was detected at 97% of the sunscreen-protected scores. The most sun-sensitive subjects obtained the least erythema protection. The higher the SPF was, the higher the erythema protection, but the intensity of PPD was also higher. The 2 sunscreens using only FDA-approved sunscreen filters rated 30 SPF and 45+ SPF performed poorly: Eighty-one percent of the 136 scores were graded 1 minimal erythema dose or higher erythema, achieving, at a maximum, SPF of 5-7 in natural sunlight. Sun-protective fabrics tested provided excellent sun protection. The erythema and PPD observed through the sunscreens in less than 2 h are incongruous with the broad-spectrum, high-SPF sunscreen claims. Reapplying these sunscreens and staying in the sun longer, as stated on the product labels, would have subjected the subjects to even more UV exposure. High-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen claims based on indoor solar simulator testing do not agree with the natural sunlight protection test results.

Hispanic/Latinos and Skincare: Disparities in Product Development, Marketing, and Toxicity.

“Hispanic” and “Latino” (also known as Mestizo) describe a diverse racial and ethnic group, with a range of cultures, languages, and biological ancestry. It includes individuals of Mexican, Central-to-South American, and Spanish-Caribbean (eg, Cuban, Puerto Rican, and Dominican) descent.1 Individuals of Hispanic/Latino race and ethnicity represent a heterogenous group of people with different skin tones and Fitzpatrick phototypes. Hispanic/Latinos are the fastest growing population in the United States (US) - projected to increase from 55 million in 2014 to 119 million in 2060, an increase of 115%.2 By 2060, more than one-quarter (29%) of the US is projected to be Hispanic/Latino.2.

Chromametric assessment of drug skin tolerance: A comparative study between Africans and Caucasians skins.

BACKGROUND/AIMS: During dermatological forms development, one of the simplest non-invasive techniques used to evaluate cutaneous tolerance of formulations is to monitor the color changes using a tristimulus chromameter. Most published tolerance studies involving chromametric measurements are performed on Caucasian subjects. However, in the context of drug formulation for African-type populations, it is not always relevant to transpose tolerance results obtained on Caucasians populations to African-type ones due to histological ethnic differences of the skin. The goal of this work was to assess whether tristimulus chromameter can be used to highlight color variations following the application of dermatological topics on black skin in order to validate skin tolerance studies made on African-type subjects. MATERIALS AND METHODS: After application of two commercial creams with opposite side effects (skin irritation and skin blanching) in both Africans and Caucasians populations, color variations were evaluated using a tristimulus chromameter in L* a* b* color system and compared between both populations. L* indicating color brightness, a* represents green and red directions and b* represents blue and yellow directions. RESULTS: While skin irritation resulted in a significant increase of a* parameter in both studied populations, the skin blanching resulted in a decrease of a* associated with an increase of L* . CONCLUSION: We established that tristimulus chromameter can be used to achieve in vivo skin tolerance study of dermatologic formulations in Africans despite their dark skin even though it appeared less sensitive. This study can speed up the development of dermatological forms dedicated to Africans and/or Caucasians subjects.

["Getting clear skin and why not?": voluntary depigmentation among women in a southwest region of Benin]. / "Avoir la peau claire et pourquoi pas? ": dépigmentation volontaire chez les femmes dans une région du sud-ouest du Bénin.

INTRODUCTION: This study aims to determine the prevalence and the factors associated with the use of products for voluntary depigmentation among women aged 15-49 years in Comè health zone in Benin. METHODS: We conducted a cross-sectional study of 511 women aged 15-49 years selected using a cluster survey in 2016. Data were collected using a questionnaire seeking to explore the demographic, socio-cultural and economic characteristics of women. Depigmentation ingredients have been identified looking at the composition of regularly used body lotions. We performed a multiple logistic regression analysis. The statistical significance level was set at 5%. RESULTS: The prevalence of use for voluntary depigmentation products among women aged 15-49 years in Comè health zone was 79,22% 95%; CI=[75,72-82,78] and 84,23% of women knew at least one of the adverse health effects associated with the use of skin depigmentation products. The products used were hydroquinone based (98.24%) and dermocorticoid based (1.76%). Factors associated with the use of voluntary depigmentation products included marital status (single, widowed, separated or divorced) (OR=3.1; 95% CI=[1.29-7.44]), the search for a husband or a partner (OR=4.92; 95% CI=[1.20-20.09]), the presence of hyperpigmented spots (OR=10.32; 95% CI=[2.87-37,01]). CONCLUSION: These results show that the use of skin depigmentation products among women is a serious and huge public health problem in Comè health zone. Integrated communication campaign which can produce positive changes should be implemented.

Prospective, randomized, double-blind assessment of topical bakuchiol and retinol for facial photoageing.

BACKGROUND: Bakuchiol is a phytochemical that has demonstrated cutaneous antiageing effects when applied topically. Early studies have suggested that bakuchiol is a functional analogue of topical retinoids, as both compounds have been shown to induce similar gene expression in the skin and lead to improvement of cutaneous photodamage. No in vivo studies have compared the two compounds for efficacy and side-effects. OBJECTIVES: To compare the clinical efficacy and side-effect profiles of bakuchiol and retinol in improving common signs of cutaneous facial ageing. METHODS: This was a randomized, double-blind, 12-week study in which 44 patients were asked to apply either bakuchiol 0·5% cream twice daily or retinol 0·5% cream daily. A facial photograph and analytical system was used to obtain and analyse high-resolution photographs of patients at 0, 4, 8 and 12 weeks. Patients also completed tolerability assessment questions to review side-effects. During study visits, a board-certified dermatologist, blinded to study group assignments, graded pigmentation and redness. RESULTS: Bakuchiol and retinol both significantly decreased wrinkle surface area and hyperpigmentation, with no statistical difference between the compounds. The retinol users reported more facial skin scaling and stinging. CONCLUSIONS: Our study demonstrates that bakuchiol is comparable with retinol in its ability to improve photoageing and is better tolerated than retinol. Bakuchiol is promising as a more tolerable alternative to retinol.

[Cutaneous depigmentation in black female population for cosmetic purposes: results of a KAP survey conducted in Abidjan (Ivory Coast)]. / Dépigmentation cutanée cosmétique des femmes noires: résultats d'une enquête CAP à Abidjan (Côte d'Ivoire).

INTRODUCTION: Cutaneous depigmentation for cosmeticis purposes is a widespread practice among black African women. It has many complications that have been well documented for decades. However, the reasons of practitioners are not well known. The aim of our study was to understand the motivating reasons of these women in order to conduct a communication campaign for behavior change. METHODS: We performed a cross-sectional KAP survey (Knowledge/Attitudes/Practices) at the Dermatology Department of the University Hospital of Treichville (Abidjan) Data were analyzed using Epi Info 3.5.1. and 6.04 software. RESULTS: Practitioners were mostly young urban single, literate and professionally active women (20-40 years). Cutaneous depigmentation and its consequences were known to women, however, they thought that women with the lightest complexion were more attractive. They were influenced by media and friends. The most frequently observed complications were exogenous ochronosis and stretch marks. The local means of communication remained what essentially sustained the information needs of these women, because they help them to change their behavior. CONCLUSION: The development of local communication strategies for behavior change seems necessary to stop the phenomenon of cutaneous depigmentation for cosmetic purposes in black female population in Abidjan.

Risk assessment of skin lightening cosmetics containing hydroquinone.

Following reports on potential risks of hydroquinone (HQ), HQ for skin lightening has been banned or restricted in Europe and the US. In contrast, HQ is not listed as a prohibited or limited ingredient for cosmetic use in Japan, and many HQ cosmetics are sold without restriction. To assess the risk of systemic effects of HQ, we examined the rat skin permeation rates of four HQ (0.3%, 1.0%, 2.6%, and 3.3%) cosmetics. The permeation coefficients ranged from 1.2 × 10-9 to 3.1 × 10-7 cm/s, with the highest value superior than the HQ aqueous solution (1.6 × 10-7 cm/s). After dermal application of the HQ cosmetics to rats, HQ in plasma was detected only in the treatment by highest coefficient cosmetic. Absorbed HQ levels treated with this highest coefficient cosmetic in humans were estimated by numerical methods, and we calculated the margin of exposure (MOE) for the estimated dose (0.017 mg/kg-bw/day in proper use) to a benchmark dose for rat renal tubule adenomas. The MOE of 559 is judged to be in a range safe for the consumer. However, further consideration may be required for regulation of cosmetic ingredients.

Development and Clinical Assessment of a Comprehensive Product for Pigmentation Control in Multiple Ethnic Populations.

BACKGROUND: Pigmentary changes in people of different ethnic origins are controlled by slight variations in key biological pathways leading to different outcomes from the same treatment. It is important to develop and test products for desired outcomes in varying ethnic populations. OBJECTIVES: To develop a comprehensive product (LYT2) that affects all major biological pathways controlling pigmentation and test for clinical efficacy and safety in different ethnic populations. METHODS: A thorough analysis of biological pathways was used to identify ingredient combinations for LYT2 that provided optimal melanin reduction in a 3-D skin model. Expression of four key genes for melanogenesis, TYR, TYRP-1, DCT, and MITF was analyzed by qPCR. Clinical study was conducted to compare the efficacy and tolerability of LYT2 against 4% hydroquinone (HQ). RESULTS: Average melanin suppression by LYT2 in 7 independent experiments was 45%. All four key genes show significant down- regulation of expression. LYT2 provided statistically significant reductions in mean overall hyperpigmentation grades as early as week 2 compared to baseline, with continued significant improvements through week 12 in all ethnic groups tested. CONCLUSION: We have successfully combined management of 6 categories of pathways related to melanogenesis: melanocyte activation, melanosome development, melanin production, melanin distribution, keratinocyte turnover, and barrier function to create a comprehensive HQ-free product. The outcome clearly shows greater pigmentation control with LYT2 compared to other HQ-free products in skin tissue models and earlier control in clinical studies compared to 4% HQ. Clinical study shows pigmentation control benefits of LYT2 in people of Caucasian, Hispanic, and African ethnic origins. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016;15(12):1562-1570.

Skin lightening practices: an epidemiological study of South African women of African and Indian ancestries.

BACKGROUND: Cutaneous adverse sequelae of skin lightening creams present with myriad skin complications and affect dermatology practice, particularly in sub-Saharan Africa where such products are widely used, with a prevalence of 25-67%. OBJECTIVES: To examine the skin lightening practices of both African and Indian women living in South Africa. METHODS: A cross-sectional survey was undertaken in the general outpatient departments of two regional university hospitals in Durban, South Africa. All consenting African and Indian women aged 18-70 years were recruited and asked to complete a questionnaire. RESULTS: Six hundred women completed the questionnaire, of whom 32·7% reported using skin lightening products. The main reasons cited were treatment of skin problems (66·7%) and skin lightening (33·3%). Products were purchased from a variety of sources. Twenty-five percent reported using sunscreen. CONCLUSIONS: The use of skin lightening cosmetics is common among darkly pigmented South African women, including those of both African and Indian ancestries. Despite more than 20 years of governmental regulations aimed at prohibiting both the sale of cosmetics containing mercury, hydroquinone and corticosteroids, and the advertising of any kind of skin lightener, they are far from having disappeared. The main motivations for using these products are the desire to treat skin disorders and to achieve a lighter skin colour. Television and magazine advertisements seem to influence women's choice of these products and, thus, would be efficient channels for raising public awareness about the dangers of using uncontrolled skin lighteners.

Objective assessment of vitiligo with a computerised digital imaging analysis system.

An objective tool to quantify treatment response in vitiligo is currently lacking. This study aimed to objectively evaluate the treatment response in vitiligo by using a computerised digital imaging analysis system (C-DIAS) and to compare it with the physician's global assessment (PGA). Tacrolimus ointment 0.1% (Protopic; Astellas Pharma Tech,Toyama, Japan) was applied twice daily on selected lesions which were photographed every 6 weeks for 24 weeks. The primary efficacy end-point was the mean percentage of repigmentation (MPR), as assessed by the digital method (MPR-C-DIAS) or by the PGA. The response was categorised into none (0%), mild (1-25%), moderate (26-50%), good (51-75%) and excellent (76-100%). MPR-C-DIAS: Out of 56 patients, 44 (79%) responded. Overall, the response was mild in 22 (39%), moderate in 21(40%) and good in one (2%) patient(s). A total of 39 (70%) patients responded as measured by PGA. The repigmentation was mild in 27(48%), moderate in 10 (18%) and good to excellent in two (4%) patients. The κ test of consistency was 0.17 (P = 0.053), which shows poor agreement between the two assessment methods, although this is not statistically significant. The C-DIAS can be used to perform an objective analysis of repigmentation or depigmentation in vitiligo skin lesions in response to treatment.

Assessment of efficacy of platelet-rich plasma (PRP) on infraorbital dark circles and crow's feet wrinkles.

BACKGROUND: Infraorbital skin hyperpigmentation, commonly called dark circles, and crow's feet wrinkles are common cosmetic concerns. Various methods of treatment have been evaluated with variable outcomes. OBJECTIVE: This study was performed to assess the efficacy of platelet-rich plasma (PRP) injection for treating periorbital dark circles and crow's feet. METHODS: Ten participants with a mean age of 41.2 years were treated in a single session with intradermal injections of 1.5 mL PRP into tear trough area and crow's feet wrinkles on each side. The effects on melanin content, color homogeneity of the treated area, epidermal stratum corneum hydration, and wrinkle volume and visibility index were compared 3 months after treatment with baseline. Physician's global assessment and participants' satisfaction and any potential side effects were also assessed. RESULTS: The improvement in infraorbital color homogeneity was statistically significant (P = 0.010), but no statistically significant changes were observed in melanin content, stratum corneum hydration, wrinkle volume, and visibility index. Participant's satisfaction score and physician's global assessment score were 2.2 and 1.7, respectively, on a 0-3 scale. CONCLUSION: Platelet-rich plasma may have the potential to improve infraorbital dark circle in terms of color homogeneity of the region, though this remains to be proven using larger, controlled studies using multiple injections.

Assessment of a superficial chemical peel combined with a multimodal, hydroquinone-free skin brightener using in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy.

The combination of in-office procedures such as chemical peels with topical maintenance therapies has been shown to provide greater efficacy than either treatment by itself in the management of melasma. A series of 3 case studies were conducted to evaluate the efficacy and tolerability of one superficial chemical peel (containing a proprietary blend of resorcinol, lactic acid, salicylic acid, and retinol) combined with a topical multimodal, hydroquinone-free skin brightener as postpeel maintenance therapy. Patients presented with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation. At baseline, subjects received the superficial chemical peel treatment followed by a standard postpeel skin care regimen (cleanser, moisturizer, and SPF 30+ sunscreen). Approximately 1 week after the peel procedure, subjects initiated twice-daily application of the skin brightener. Subjects were then evaluated for Global Improvement in Hyperpigmentation by the investigator for up to 7 weeks postpeel. Standardized digital photographs of the subjects facial skin and in vivo reflectance confocal microscopy (RCM) images were taken of a target hyperpigmented lesion at baseline and at follow-up. Standardized photography and in vivo RCM images at baseline and at postpeel show the improvements observed by the investigator. Results from these case studies suggest that the combination of a superficial chemical peel with topical maintenance and the multimodal skin brightener may provide an effective treatment approach for subjects with moderate to severe facial hyperpigmentation.

The use of topical bleaching agents among women: a cross-sectional study of knowledge, attitude and practices.

BACKGROUND: Although the practice of bleaching is common worldwide, there are few studies that discuss knowledge, attitudes and practices towards bleaching. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study was to explore the knowledge, attitudes and practices towards the usage of topical bleaching agents among women. METHODS: A self-administered questionnaire on the use of bleaching creams was distributed randomly to women attending the outpatient clinics at a university hospital in Saudi Arabia during 2008. RESULTS: Five hundred and nine of 620 women responded (82% response rate). All the participants had dark skin (skin type 4-5). The mean age was 29.22 ± 9 years. Of the participants, 38.9% (197/506) were current users of bleaching agents. Only 26.7% (106/397) of the respondents used bleaching agents for medical purposes to treat localized abnormal skin hyper-pigmentation; 20.8% (101/485) were ready to use any bleaching cream that gives fast results, even if the components were unknown. Of the respondents, 30% (152/509) used more than 100 g of bleaching creams monthly. These products were applied to the whole body in 7.3% of the cases. While 10.3% (28/271) continued applying the bleaching products during pregnancy, 20.8% (54/260) did so during lactation. No associations could be found between the various sociodemographic variables and differences in the attitude towards and practice of using bleaching creams. CONCLUSION: A major proportion of our sample respondents have overused and/or misused bleaching agents. This was regardless of age, income, education or marital status. There is a need to educate women about the possible risks.

Wide-field spatial mapping of in vivo tattoo skin optical properties using modulated imaging.

BACKGROUND AND OBJECTIVES: Modulated imaging is a new modality capable of wide-field, spatially resolved measurement of in vivo optical properties. Based on spatial light modulation, the method is inexpensive, non-contact, and allows spatial mapping of tissue absorption and reduced scattering coefficients at any wavelength between 450 and 1,100 nm. Currently, clinicians rely on qualitative visual inspection to guide parameter selection for laser-based tattoo removal. MI provides quantitative measurements of multi-colored tattooed skin which may help guide treatment and objectively assess response. STUDY DESIGN/MATERIALS AND METHODS: We have measured the spatially varying optical properties of multi-colored tattooed skin over a 50 mm x 50 mm field of view at wavelengths ranging from 650 to 970 nm using MI. These measurements were compared to a similar field of view of non-tattooed skin from an adjacent area. RESULTS: We have determined the differentiated optical properties in vivo of multi-colored tattooed skin versus non-tattooed skin. CONCLUSIONS: MI provides spatially resolved quantitative information with potential for quantitative assessment of response to treatment and may provide guidance for laser tattoo removal in the future.

The concept of skin bleaching in Africa and its devastating health implications.

Africa is considered a continent of mystery and intrigue with absurd concepts and beliefs. Cosmetic dermatology is no less intriguing than other issues. While quick judgement may be passed condemning attitudes and misconceptions in this field, we need to analyze factors that contribute to such ideas. Acquiring a lighter skin forms the basis of Skin Care and Cosmetology in dark skinned people. This regrettably has far reaching devastating effects on health and individual finances. This in return has enriched unscrupulous stake holders. Help from the international medical fraternity and the pharmaceutical/cosmetology industry is required to end this evil.

A long-term time course of colorimetric assessment of the effects of imatinib mesylate on skin pigmentation: a study of five patients.

BACKGROUND: Imatinib mesylate (IM), the first-line treatment of chronic myeloid leukaemia (CML), is a tyrosine kinase inhibitor that targets those proteins involved in BCR-ABL signal transduction in CML, c-kit (KIT) and platelet-derived growth-factor (PDGFR) receptor. The use of IM has been associated with cutaneous reactions. In the last 2 years numerous studies have focused the attention on hypopigmentations, depigmentations and photosensitivity developing after the initiation of IM therapy. OBJECTIVE: The aim of this study is to evaluate the effects of IM therapy on the skin pigmentation of five patients affected by CML. METHODS: Skin pigmentation measurements were performed with a Minolta CR-200 Chromameter. results: All the studied patients show the gradual lightening of the skin on unexposed areas over the treatment with IM. In particular, this explorative colorimetric study indicates the association between IM and skin depigmentation with a significant increase of luminance value (L*) (P = 0.001) and a significant decrease of the pigmentation value (b*) (P = 0.028). CONCLUSION: Even if we do not know the clinical significance of the skin depigmentation caused by IM, the regulatory role of KIT and its ligand stem cell factor in melanocyte development and survival seems to suggest an objective mechanism of action for IM in the pathogenesis of this cutaneous depigmentation.

Prevalence of sunless tanning product use and related behaviors among adults in the United States: results from a national survey.

Little is known about the use of sunless tanning products in the United States. This report describes the prevalence and correlates of sunless tanning use, comparing exclusive sunless tanners, exclusive indoor tanners, both sunless and indoor tanners, and non-tanners with respect to sociodemographic and sun protection behaviors.

Vitiligo-like lesions and diffuse lightening of the skin in a pediatric patient treated with imatinib mesylate: a noninvasive colorimetric assessment.

Imatinib mesylate is a drug that has been recently approved for the treatment for chronic myeloid leukemia. It acts as a potent and selective inhibitor of BCR-ABL tyrosine kinase. It also inhibits both c-kit and platelet-derived growth factor receptor tyrosine kinases. Hypopigmentation of the skin in patients receiving this drug has been recently reported. We report a 17-year-old Caucasian patient affected by chronic myeloid leukemia in therapy with imatinib mesylate who developed hypopigmented vitiligo-like patches and generalized lightening of the skin. In order to evaluate the lightening observed clinically, we measured the progressive skin color hypopigmentation by using a colorimeter over several months. The colorimetric evaluation confirmed the generalized and gradual lightening of patient's skin over treatment with imatinib mesylate. We believe that this is the first reported instance of vitiligo-like lesions in a pediatric patient treated with imatinib mesylate, and the second in a Caucasian patient.